Zai Zhen Beijing, Hola Distrito Federal

We’re back in Mexico. And we came right into the middle of the big yuck… Mexico City. Okay, okay, there are really great things about Mexico City too and actually I’ve been having a good time. My husband, Pancho, and I have decided to stick with the Beijing Bicycle lifestyle. The main difference is that here we’ve traded in our Chinese one-speed heavy metal bikes for titanium rockets complete with shocks, borrowed from my two brothers-in-law! The shocks are for the topes (speed bumps), the coladeras (drainage holes), and the cobblestones. The rockets (leg-powered) are for escaping from the crazy drivers on Tlalpan Avenue! There is plenty of traffic to deal with here, like in Beijing, but what’s missing are the mandatory bike lanes where cyclists ride free and without the impending threat of being squashed. We also have no one riding at our sides. The millions and millions of cyclists in Beijing created a biker bond and it is tough not to think longingly back to taking over intersections with fifty other cyclists even when we didn’t have the right of way! In exchange for an army of cyclists, Mexico City has an army of small buses that circulate called ‘peseros’. These buses are known for their speed, their disregard for any other vehicle or person on the road, and for their inability to use any type of signal or brake light, although their horns seem to work. We have been polishing our ducking, weaving and dodging abilities to deal with these mini bus monsters. Since they always run in the outside lane we are constantly in battle with them. I usually ride behind Pancho since I don’t know the routes yet and several times we’ve had to pull over beside a stopped pesero so Pancho could (calmly and respectfully… Mexican style) explain to the driver that he had just brutally cut us off or rubbed us so close to the curb that we were about to jump off our bikes. Pesero drivers are never open to someone telling them their driving skills aren’t up to par and so the conversation often ends in blunt remarks by both parties followed by several blocks of steaming solo commentaries as Pancho rides away. The days of peacefully riding with our heads in the clouds, content in our bike lanes are over.

There are, however, cyclist similarities between Mexico City and Beijing. Every time we tell our friends we arrived on bikes they ask us where we came from and then can’t believe it. A twenty block ride is considered far and sometimes even causes gasps among less-active acquaintances. My Beijing friends were the same, always shocked at our bike outings, especially because bike riding in Beijing is usually reserved for those people who can’t afford cars. It seems that people in both cities prefer sitting in their stopped vehicles to riding with the wind in their hair, passing traffic jammed cars.

In addition to being a quick mode of transport and a great way to keep fit, family outings are a blast with bicycles. Unfortunately, we haven’t put a baby seat on either of the bikes yet. I especially miss having Denya, my two-year-old on board, poking me from behind, but I am more comfortable leaving her with her grandma then trying to manage this traffic with her safety in mind. She doesn’t agree though and when we go out on bikes she gets upset and I’m sure she’s reminiscing back to her little green seat in Beijing where she spent many a happy hour checking out her surroundings from the back of mama’s bike.

All this and I have yet to mention the extreme temperature difference between riding in Beijing and Mexico City. When we left I was wearing gloves, a scarf and a toque (Canadian word for winter hat) and Denya was wearing four, five and sometimes six layers of clothing to combat the cold. Pancho, being Mexican sometimes wore up to seven layers of winter clothing. Here we go out in sleeveless shirts and shorts and enjoy the sun beating down on our backs.

In addition to the pleasant change in weather there is also a significant decrease in smog here in Mexico City, at least the visible kind of smog. I can’t say that I understand this change because I am sure that there has to be as much pollution here in the biggest city in the world as there is in Beijing. Regardless, when I climb up to the rooftop here in the morning and look into the distance I am filled with joy that I can see farther than the next two buildings. This feeling of happiness at the lack of visible smog is probably a good indication that we need to get out of all cities for a while.

What else is good? If I get lost I can easily ask for directions. The first few days I couldn’t believe everyone could understand what I was saying. When they would open their mouths I was also shocked that everything they said registered and made perfect sense. I found myself saying, “xie xie,” “due” and “mai she” in response but no one seemed to notice my Chinese responses.

If you remember, I was teaching small children in a Montessori School in Beijing over the last year and a half. I’m temporarily retired from that career and I’m now working free lance. I’m an English (ESL) teacher, Ashtanga Yoga Instructor, Fire and Stilts Performer, Chinese Paper Cutting Artist and Instructor, International Importer (specializing in China), performance agent and blog writer! He he.

I have also been helping Pancho out with his performance jobs and the workshops he has been giving here. The other night at 1:30am I was laughing to myself as I did some reparations to a Spider Man costume. I thought how strange to be sewing a Spider Man costume for my full grown husband, something that many moms do for their little ones around Halloween time, but not usually for a show where their husband comes out as Spider Man climbing and jumping from pole to pole and fighting off his colleagues, who were dressed as luchadores (Mexican Wrestlers). If only I had some video footage to post for your pleasure!

My daughter has been adjusting to things here in Mexico too. She is constantly trying to convince me to take her into the streets to search for street dogs. Way back in a previous blog I mentioned that the dogs in Beijing were all little Pugs and Pekinese (surprise surprise) on tight leashes with big yaps. Here in Mexico there are loads of street dogs all with their own dread locks behind the ears. Denya loves these Rastafarian dogs and she sits in her stroller saying ‘dog’ over and over again until she gets the urge to pet her new friend. That is always my clue to slowly push her away with promise of another dog just around the corner. I can always be sure to find another one around the corner, just as dirty. As I often say, Mexico is dog Heaven on Earth, where even the mangiest can roam free, surviving off of scraps and finding refuge in the faces of other liberated dogs.

China, only three weeks, and forever ago, is with us daily. Everyone we meet is curious about our experiences in Beijing and we can talk about China for hours because only now that we’ve left have we realized all the amazing differences we took for granted while we were there. Talks about the food leave my mouth watering and I’m reminded that when we were there how talks of tortillas and fresh fruit water left me longing for Mexico. It’s the differences in worlds that make traveling so interesting and wonderful. Each place has its own magic. I thrive off of this magic and it always leaves me longing for more.