Exploring the Ancient Civilizations of Sri Lanka (Part 1)

I had come to Sri Lanka expecting a week-long vacation from the trials of traveling in India. Yet, in my first two days, I experienced such welcoming hospitality that I knew my stay would be longer. For in this small island nation I had realized the reason for my journey to this part of the world. The thrill of discovery and anticipation of adventure rushed through my blood knowing that each moment that lay before me would be another I would never forget.

I left on a train bound for Anaradhapura, the original heart of Sri Lankan civilization. I quickly found that traveling alone, be it on the bus or train, would put me face to face with the country's greatest beauty- its people. For on that train ride, I met the most amazing people and shared in such unforgettable moments. During that 6-hour ride, we passed through a stunning landscape of palm-covered countryside, lily-pad ponds, and ornate Buddhist temples. I had discovered that the beauty of Sri Lanka would not only be found it its natural splendors, but in the wonderful pride and generosity of its people.

I woke in Anaradhapura as the first rays of the sun touched the town, eager to explore an area from which Sinhalese kings had ruled the country for over 1000 years. Of the Sri Lankan capitals, Anaradhapura is the oldest, most extensive, and also the most important. Between 247-207 BC it rose to great importance becoming a glamorous and glittering city, only to fall from a South Indian invasion- a fate that was to befall the city repeatedly for more than 1000 years.

The ancient city of Anaradhapura is rather spread out so I rented a bike and pedaled past people on their way to work and school. Crossing the bridge into the ancient city I got my first taste of the splendors that awaited me, glimpsing two massive domes rising high above the trees, my first two stops of the day.Entering down a walkway past six tall stone pillars and countless monkeys, I approached King Dutugemunu's finest construction, Ruvanvelisaya. Guarded by a wall of hundreds of stone elephants, Ruvanvelisaya incurred much damage from Indian invaders which lowered its height to 55 meters, considerably less than the original. The land around the dagoba is a pleasant green park dotted with patches of ruins, remains of ponds and pools, and collections of columns and pillars, all picturesquely leaning in different directions.
A beautiful woodlands path carried me to Lankarama Temple where I met a sweet and gentle man, a former policeman of 77 years who now dedicates his life to the study of Buddhism. He had a welcoming smile and friendly personality, talking to me about the need for meditation in life. "Worry will just make more worries," he told me. "But meditation will set you free."

As the heat of the morning fell upon dusty dirt roads, I ventured into a vast woodlands area containing many ruins and ancient sites in the cool shade of the trees. This area once contained simple yet grand monasteries and residential complexes, but now little remains except moss-covered stone walls, free-standing pillars, ancient stone walkways and a few small stupas. I meandered around the peaceful woodlands setting listening to the chirping of birds, squealing of monkeys and observing an iguana so large I jumped onto a stone wall in fear.


On my way to the Sacred Bodhi tree, I pedaled next to a nice man of 55 years who spoke English and German and worked as a guide. He liked to study U.S. history, he told me, and his favorite figure was George Washington. Together we talked for quite some time, mostly at the Archaeological Museum where he translated for the sweet lady behind the ticket counter. We discussed many issues, the woman asking many questions about customs, dress and distances in America. He emphasized "no sex before marriage" in Sri Lanka and you could see the concern on both of their faces as we talked about divorce in America and they asked what happens to the children. Such subjects are difficult to explain in a country that places such high value on the family unit and often makes me appreciate the wonderful family with which I have been blessed.
My final stop of the day was the Sacred Bodhi Tree. A long walk down a sealed path brought me to one of the most sacred spots in Sri Lanka. This huge tree, set on a large platform and protected by a railing festooned with prayer flags, is said to have grown from a cutting of the tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment, and has a connection to the very basis of Sinhalese religion and serves as a reminder of the force that inspired creation of all buildings at Anaradhapura. This tree is the oldest historically authenticated tree in the world and has been tended to by an uninterrupted succession of guardians for over 2000 years. I removed my shoes, bought an offering of flowers, and joined the many worshippers who surrounded the tree- a perfect ending to a day of exploration, both pyshically and spiritually, in Anaradhapura.

After an afternoon nap, I hopped in a rickshaw and made the journey to Mihintale, a mountain of enormous significance to the Sinhalese because it is where Buddhism originated in Sri Lanka. I climbed the 1840 stone steps to watch the sunset from where I had an obstructed view of the countryside and the towering stupas at Anaradhapura. It was a beautiful sight, the surrounding mountains and countryside bathed in dim light. Then as the last bit of light faded I climbed another staircase to the large white meditating Buddah that dominates the hill, pausing to ring the bell and make my wish. As I descended the steps, I smiled to myself and wondered, "What else could I possibly wish for in this life?"